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A former vegetarian raised in Bakersfield and trained in French and Asian cuisine -- this may seem an unlikely bio for a soul food chef. But with family roots in Louisiana, Oklahoma and Texas, chef Larkin Mackey has Southern cred too, and at his eponymous joint in Eagle Rock -- inside a homey, converted bungalow -- he's turning out "contemporary soul food" that draws on the disparate elements of his background. You'll find rich and unreconstructed classics like smothered pork chops and fried chicken, thick caramel-colored crust protecting its stash of juicy goodness inside, as well as lighter dishes like warm okra salad with spinach and heirloom tomatoes. In a nod to the meat-free lifestyle, Mackey uses no pork fat to season his vegetable sides. Which makes it easier to order Momma's buttermilk pie for dessert.

menu musts

BBQ (Larkin's "black gold" works on everything from beef brisket to jumbo shrimp.) Portobello fries

"Nunya" Mac & Cheese (Don't ask what kind of cheese. "It's nunya business," Mackey says.) Buttermilk pie with vanilla bean whipped cream

Larkin's fruit punch

sweet seats

On warm nights, head out back to the long picnic tables in the garden. Tables on the front porch offer more privacy. Inside, any seat in the front room is good; photos of hot dog ladies in Havana will keep you occupied while you wait (the service here is like a Southern drawl -- cheerfully slow).

chew on this

An all-you-can-eat Po'Man's Buffet runs on Sunday nights from 5 PM "until they run out of food" ($12.99 per person, not including drinks or dessert).

hours

daily: Wed.-Sun. 11:30 AM-10 PM

brunch: Sat. and Sun. 11 AM-3 PM

price range for dinner entrées

$7 (chile verde stew) to $22 (bbq big beef rib)